Traditional Chinese courtyard architecture is characterized by a courtyard layout. The outer walls of the courtyard encircle inner courtyards with separate smaller courtyards for different members of a family's generation tree.
The outside walls when seen from the street or alleyway look inconspicuous and many times downright rundown. it is unclear what lies behind the walls - inside the courtyards.
The main gate of the courtyard is also a barrier to outsiders and bad spirits. Immediately in front of the main gate on the inside is a wall which blocks the visitor's view of the inner courtyards. Entrance is gained by the side paths around the "gateway wall."
As with Chinese traditional architecture, Chinese culture is equally "walled" off from outsiders. Starting with the Great Wall of China and the traditional feudal city walls of pre-modern China, outsiders have found it nearly impossible to find their way to the center courtyard of Chinese culture.
We randomly wander the outside walls of the courtyard in search of an entrance way into Chinese culture. Most fail. The failure is caused by "Potemkin-style" images of Chinese culture. These are illusions based on historical complexity which remain intentionally difficult to decipher.
Doors are opened that lead to dead ends. Threads are pulled which lead to barren rooms without any explanation.
The first key available to most visitors to Chinese culture is the Chinese language. This key is available globally. It has been duplicated many times by both Chinese and foreigners alike. The key fits the culture lock and is often able to open a few doors. The challenge is that the copies of this key are not precise. Sometimes it works and many times it fails.
This failure is rooted in the tonal nature of the Chinese language. using the wrong tone can cause you to swear at your mother rather than calling her "Mom." Failure can mean selling your watch rather than buying a new one.
For those who are able to turn the culture key repeatedly in the correct manner forging the first wall of the courtyard is possible and has been accomplished by many people across many years. Entering the first courtyard is the essential fist step.
Once inside the first courtyard one is calmed by a sense of understanding and appreciation. While one sense victory and accomplishment, the next door is more difficult to locate. It is narrow and hard to find. It melts into the courtyard wall. its keyhole is not obvious.. In fact a traditional key will not open this door.
The door can not be opened by one person alone. The traveler must join a group by forming relationships in order to understand how the door can be opened. Forming relationships is a tireless challenge laced with false starts.
I once invited a friend to lunch. I was building a relationship in search of the key. A noodle shop came upon me and I invited my friend to have luch together. The noodles were spiced with hot Sichuan chili peppers and was delicious. The meal was delicious. I paid the bill and left pleased with myself.
Later I heard from a mutual friend that my lunch companion was insulted by the fact that I had only invited him to eat noodles - a very basic meal. The meal was not high end enough. I had not given my new friend enough "face." I had not offered an expensive or unique meal but only a basic meal.
My attempt at joining this group had failed miserably and the hoped for new relationship had crashed and burned. I was never able to recover from that day ! I continued my search for the next door....
Through trial and error one can eventually find the second door and solve the puzzle that produces the key to a deeper understanding of Chinese culture. It takes years to find the next door and open it. When opened the sense of accomplishment is tremendous. It is not necessarily embodied in one event - one transaction but is more of a process. Success comes upon you after you have crossed the threshold of the sought after door !
This process of entering the next inner courtyard continues forever. Locating and entering the inner most courtyard is a lifelong task that may not be completely achievable. Life is a journey. Understanding Chinese culture adds an exciting and challenging component to this journey.
When one views a tired and rundown wall don't be fooled that this is a sign of poverty or disrepair. The wall is the "outside" and does not represent what is "Inside."